Vw Car Over Heating ..and Liquid Was Coming at the Bottom..?

Hopefully you pulled over and turned off the car. It's ok to run a car without any coolant however you can only do it for short jumps and then wait for it to cool down again. It could be alot of things making it leak, something simple like a hose, could be a bad leak in your radiator, or it could be that your water pump went out. You can check by filling your car radiator up with water again (Coolant is just antifreeze mixed with water). Make SURE You do not have your Air Conditioner running - just have the temp set to OFF, very important because you would quickly freeze the water! Then just see what is leaking in the engine. Water pumps are fairly easy to replace usually, however if you have no experience at all in cars then you would be stuck with a mechanic (Good luck with those people, they like to screw people over alot). If you have any friends that are mechanically inclined you might want to ask them for help, like I said it's not a hard job. If it's a hose it's really easy, there's just a couple clamps holding them on which normally come off with a screw driver. Those only cost about 15 dollars, including the clamps, assuming you do it yourself. Most likely is not the radiator unless you smacked into a large bird or damaged it, they normally wear out slowly and over a long time, not quickly and unexpectedly like a water pump or hose. If it's a slow leak, just a drop here and there, and you can not really find where it's coming from, then you should be able to use some additive like stop-leak. If it's a steady water stream it's probably the water pump - those cost around 50 dollars or so, plus installing from a mechanic usually would be around 100 I would imagine.

1. Shoundn't priority one (japan relief) be to power the nuke plants' water pumps so this business will end?

the problem is that the tsunami pretty much devasted the entire region. aside from that, it's a swell idea.

2. Do standard water pumps used to pump water to a home distancing of 35 ft...?

There should be a pressure switch that will turn the pump on when the pressure drops and turn the pump off when the maximum pressure is reached. These work automatically and cut on/off pressures can be adjusted. There should also be a pressure tank and a pressure relief valve to insure the tank does not burst. Both can be purchased and installed or replaced.

3. Pattern Problems: 6.7L Power Stroke vs. LML Duramax

Pattern problems. Every engine ever assembled has them. Some experience fewer trivial failures than others, but in the end all internal combustion power plants have their quirks. When it comes to diesel pickups, down time often means lost income, so it definitely pays to know what you are getting into when you invest upward of $40,000 in a late-model (new or used) -ton or larger diesel truck. In the case of the 6.7L Power Stroke and the LML Duramax-both having been out since 2011-most of these engines' mild to moderate flaws have been exposed and well-documented by now. On a recent visit to Flynn's Shop in Alexander, Illinois, a shop that specializes in each of the Big Three, we were clued in as to which repeat issues occur most with each brand's highly-esteemed V8. Though Ford seems to have ironed out the majority of the issues associated with the Navistar-derived Power Strokes of yesteryear thanks to building its own Power Stroke in-house, many 6.7L-powered Super Dutys drive into Flynn's service bays with coolant and oil leaks. As for the LML Duramax, emissions system-related failures run rampant and the age-old clogged cooling stack scenario continues to play out regularly on trucks that work out in the field. For an in-depth look at the top four pattern problems for each engine, keep scrolling. Arguably the most common issue on the 6.7L Power Stroke is associated with the vacuum pump. Over time, the pump's mounting bolts loosen and can even back out completely. When they loosen their grip, oil is allowed to escape past the gasket sandwiched between the vacuum pump and the block, with an oil drip or small puddle inevitably developing under the oil pan. For best results, it's ideal to pull the vacuum pump completely, replace the gasket and hit the mounting bolts with Loctite before reinstalling them. However, in a pinch you can tighten three of the four bolts by removing the factory air intake (to gain access) and using an 8mm open-end wrench. A close second to the vacuum pump gasket issue is the tendency for the turbo coolant feed line to leak on '11-'14 engines. Due to vibration, the seal inside the quick-connect type fitting at the turbo fails, causing a small yet noticeable coolant leak. Replacing the coolant supply line is fairly straightforward, but you have to remove the upper intake plenum to gain proper access to it. Both the OEM hard line and fitting can be purchased for less than $40. Premature water pump failure is fairly common. Just to clarify, the 6.7L Power Stroke makes use of two separate cooling systems (a high-temp primary and a low-temp secondary system), so in this instance we are referring to the engine's primary water pump. For whatever reason (casting sand, supplemental coolant additives, etc.), a lot of water pumps do not make it 100,000 miles before failing-and a fair share of pumps even kick the bucket before hitting 40,000 miles. So far it seems to be the luck of the draw on getting an engine with a good primary water pump, as some die early while others last well beyond 150,000 miles. To keep your water pump, water neck, radiator hoses and even radiator in optimum health, a coolant filtration system (such as the one offered by DieselSite) is never a bad idea. This one has been a problem for Ford since the 6.4L Power Stroke debuted in '08 and it's still a semi-frequent failure today. Once again, we are referring to the 6.7L Power Stroke's primary cooling system when we talk about radiator failure. Similar to the problem found in the 6.4L application, the leaks originate where the plastic end tanks crimp onto the metal core. While leaking radiators were most common on early '11 model 6.7L Power Strokes, the folks at Flynn's still see plenty of '12-'16 Super Dutys experiencing this issue. The verdict is still out on the '17-'19 trucks, as they are still pretty new. As the 6.6L LML Duramax begins to age, more '11-'16 Chevy and GMC HD trucks are being diagnosed with cracked exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) coolers. But this emissions-related, coolant-burning failure is not reserved solely for high-mileage candidates. Some EGR coolers rupture even before the 50,000-mile mark. Telltale signs of a cracked EGR cooler include disappearing coolant (that's not making it into the crankcase) and white smoke out the tailpipe. We will note that some shops misdiagnose failed EGR coolers for blown head gaskets-the difference between the labor and parts involved in both jobs being tremendously different. Always make sure the EGR cooler is pressure tested for leaks before committing to a head gasket job on your Duramax. Problems with the emissions control systems on modern diesel trucks are highly common. With so many new technologies and components being employed to curb NOx, particulate matter emissions and CO2 emissions, it's no wonder so many trucks barely make it out of warranty before experiencing a failure. Fortunately for LML owners, GM is well aware of its chronic diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) reservoir heater failures. If your truck's VIN falls into the covered range, a 10-year/120,000-mile warranty applies to your DEF heater. When this baby goes out it's usually associated with a CEL and a P20B9 code being stored, along with a "Service Exhaust Fluid System" message on the dash. But do not put off dealing with the problem. If you continue to drive with a bad DEF heater, eventually the ECM will place itself in power reduction mode or limit the truck's top speed until it's fixed. We will note that this failure is much more common in colder climates (i.e. the upper Midwest and Canada). If you start noticing higher coolant temperatures than you are used to seeing, a common problem among all Duramax-powered GM HDs may be at work: a plugged cooling stack (all the heat exchangers mounted in front of the engine). Especially on trucks that are worked hard and rarely cleaned, see frequent field use or are full-on service trucks, the cooling stack can become chock full of debris over time, which blocks airflow across the radiator. For optimum results, it's best to take the time to disassemble and remove the cooling stack, cleaning each heat exchanger individually. However, in a time crunch a power washer can work wonders for opening up airflow through the cooling stack. The broken crankshaft phenomenon extends across all model years of the 6.6L Duramax. The fact that it occurs just as much in bone-stock to moderately modified engines as it does in excessive rpm, high horsepower mills leaves a lot of enthusiasts scratching their heads. While a broken crankshaft is nowhere near as common as an EGR cooler or DEF heater failure, the folks at Flynn's still see them more often than they would like to. To date, poor external balancing from the factory, a lack of meat in key areas and the engine's firing order have all been blamed for the crankshaft's relatively high (as compared to Cummins and Power Stroke mills) failure rate, with no definite causes(s) yet known. Turbo failure is also a fairly common occurrence on the '11-'14 6.7L Power Stroke. You can read up on the problem (along with the long-term solution) here.

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