Step 1 - remove stator from motor housing. - generally done with a 'gas circle' this is a ring with about 8 - 10 gas burners. It will expand the steel casing and let the stator drop out. Step 2 - remove burnt copper windings, usually done by sawing one end off, then pulling it out of the slots from hte other end. This will generally pull the insulating materials out with it. Step 3 - insert new insulators in the slots. Step 4 - divide the number of slots into 3, starting at the desired slot start feeding in the new copper coils in one end out the other and so forth, making sure that each time it is going into the correct division of 3 slots to keep the magnetic syncronisation correct. Step 5 - once all the coils are completed dip the motor into the curing solution to fully insulate the coils ( see my other answer for heat ratings ) Step 6 - re install into stator housing with the gas circle and rebuild.( Take care to use new bearings on the motor shaft as the old ones will be full of carbon. Interesting fact for you, if you apply voltage to the stator when it is removed and put a ball bearing in it you will be able to find the spot where the coil has failed, bearing will go round in the stator with the magnetism and drop when it comes to the open link. This is done when a motor continuously fails and the phase recognition needs to be carried out to ensure there is no fault with the power being supplied to the motor. Hope this helps.
1. Electric Power comes back when I open up warm tap water and then goes when I close the tap
As already said by other authors, the interrupted phase is supplied by one or both of the other 2 phases when the water heater switches on (backfeed). It could be a also multiple problem with a combination of shortcut(s) and low resistances between phases or phase to Neutral. This could increase the voltage to a level thatdestroys the devices that are fed by this backfeed via the water heater, since the water heater's resistances are very low and the sum of 2 phases with 120 degree difference could be fed back. The heater is connected to a 3-phase breaker that can only interrupt 3 phases alltogether, even if there is an overload on 1 phase only. That breaker apparently did not trip - or the heater does not have a combined triple circuit breaker, but only 3 separate ones, which is against the standard/code.Most likely an upstream fuse or breaker did trip, which is separate for all 3 phases. Do neighbours report problems with some electric circuits not working? If not, the problem is within the own house/apartment.The heavy main fuses/breakers upstream of the water heater directly at the incomer box of the supplier should give the downstream breakers the priority, i.e. a short in the wiring of the water heater should cause the downstream breaker(s) to trip, and not the main fuse/breaker. Another 3 main fuses or breakers (for each phase) normally sits upstream close to the meter, and one of those could also have tripped.
2. How much energy does it take to change water from the solid phase to liquid phase?
A calorie is a unit of heat equal to the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one kilogram of water by one degree at one atmosphere pressure 1 calorie = 4.18400 joules
3. Finding phase velocity for froude number scaling
I am not sure where did you brought the would eep water relationship' in here. If you are dealing with usual water wave (gravity, surface, linear, and close to sinusoidal wave form), then the relationship you would need to use will be dispersion relationship.$omega^2 = gktanh(kh)$As you are assuming deep water, it becomes: $omega^2 = gk$Which leads to almost exactly same equation you came up with, but one less power of T:$lambda = dfracgT^22pi = 72m$and phase velocity of 10.61 meter/second.(Actually, your original calculation, with $T^3$ was incorrect. That should have give you wave length of 491 meter, instead of 712 meter)Additional comments:
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