How Do You Change a Heater Core in a 1991 Mustang 50 LX

.Here is the full heater core guide for those that do not want to pay the high costs of having someone else do it for you. the parts required were: new core, new heater core hoses (if the old ones are worn out) and a new restrictor (if your current hoses do not have one, otherwise just cut it out and use it in the new hoses), and a helper to help guide the new core in.. .do not buy an off brand (autozone, advance, etc) core, put up the cash for the. Ford. unit ($50) it's well worth it. the restrictor cost me $20, but I've heard of people using 1/4 drive 13mm sockets instead. either will work.. .it is recommended that you pick up two lengths of hose that are nice and long so you can hook up the new heater core to the engine outside the car and test it for leaks.. .there are a couple sites on the net that detail how to change the core without pulling the dash off, but once we got enough the dash loose to pry it up (includes removing the gauge pod) we decided that removing the whole dash was just a few more steps away.. .note that you DON'T have to remove or discharge ANY a/c components!. .ok here we go:. .underhood, remove the two heater hoses from the heater core at the firewall. (be prepared for antifreeze coming out of the hoses) next look a little to the left and you will see the black a/c accumulator. this has a bracket that secures it to the firewall. this bracket needs to come off, completely. after it is off, remove the nuts from the 2 studs that the bracket secured to. this effectively gives the evaporator casing an inch or two of play so you can open up the heater core lid later.. .now inside the car.. .i HIGHLY recommend labeling setting aside all screws with their appropriate parts that way you do not end up with 5 extra screws like i did. .remove the top dash speaker panels. (they screw in at the side) and also remove the dash screw at the inside side of each panel. i recommend removing the speakers too (when the dash is reinstalled, it is a pain to plug in the speakers while balancing a loose dash.. .remove the 2 screws on each end of the dash (you will have to pry out the trim there, (loosen the kick panels to achieve this). .remove the gauge pod, and the panels underneath the steering column. the headlight switch and hazard light switch come out by inserting a screwdriver in the outside side and pushing a tab and then pulling the switches out.. .remove the defroster grill at the top by prying it at the edges and remove all the dash screws underneath.. .remove the glove box.. .remove hvac controls and unscrew the heat/cold control from the panel and remove all the connectors except the vacuum lines. then slide the hvac panel back into the dash. this allows you to leave those vacuum lines connected to it.. .remove the stereo.. .remove the shift boot and knob. remove the armrest and the entire center console. (screws to the left and right of the hvac controls). .this might be a good time to vacuum underneat the center console as it collects large amounts of dirt and other goodies. .remove all the screws from the underside of the dash.. .remove the guage cluster. there are two snap in wire plugs on either side and then of course the speedo cable. remove this pushing in on the tab and pulling it off. after the gauge cluster comes out, remove the two screws behind it that secure that part of the dash to the metal behind it.. .remove the dimmer switch control. .after this, the dash should be pretty loose. feed all the cables that poke thru the dash back into their holes (label the holes if you can not remember). try to pry up and back (towards you) to remove the dash. there is a yellow vacuum line that runs to the middle of the dash, make sure you unhook this before removing the dash.. .with the dash gone the heater box will be staring you in the face in the middle of the car. the lid has a red/white/blue bundle of wires running by it, which is how you can tell where it is. remove the 2 screws that hold the front of the lid down and pry up on the lid a little and you will see the core inside, ready to come out. now the entire casing (it goes from the center of the car all the way to the right side of the car) can be out an inch or two and tilted down (provided you removed the nuts to the bolts that the a/c accumulator bracket secured to in the engine compartment.. .go to the engine compartment and spray the gasket that surrounds the heater core pipes with WD40 and wiggle them around a bunch to loosen them up.. .now, back inside the car, pry open the lid with a long screwdriver or socket set or crowbar and place a 3/8ths rachet extension under each side of the lid. .this should give you enough room to get your hands on the core and pull it out. if not, try re-arranging the evaporator casing some so you have more clearance to pry the lid up.. .once the core is removed, you have to clean out all the old sealant. this is VITAL. when the new core is installed, if you keep this old hard sealant in there it will tweak the core and cause leaks soon. i used simple green, a small flat blade, and paper towels to clean out the gunk. it is only on the bottom of where the old core sat, none is one the underside of the lid. when you are cleaning, most of the gunk will come off in little chunks and fall down further into the casing. i recommend getting a vacuum with a hose attachment and getting all that crap out. if not, when you turn on the blower, the gunk will fly out the vents (like it did to me). .when all the gunk is cleaned out, get some black rtv (dries soft, allows the core to expand and contract with heat and cold without tweaking it) and use generous amounts to form a seal.. .now comes the installation of the new core. make sure the gasket in the firewall is WD40 would up for easy install. have your helper stay in the engine compartment to help guide the core tubes thru the holes while you insert the core into the case. we got mine lined up the 2nd try and it was pretty easy.. .make another bead of rtv or blue silicone on the lid cover and then screw it back down.. .now you have a choice: put the whole car back together, then hook up the heater core hoses to test it, or go eat something and come back, hook up the heater core, and test it before you put the car back together. the rtv needs some time to set up before you go tweaking on it while putting the core hoses on.. .installation is reverse of removal, obviously. after that you will enjoy nice heat and no green puddle of death or green haze on the glass.. .elapsed time for us was 6 hours, and 1.5 of that was trying to figure out why the evaporator case would not budge (missed the nuts in the firewall)

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